Sunday 28 April 2013

McQueen


Sarah Burton


In 2000, Burton was made Head of Design – Women’s wear. On May 2010, Burton was announced as Creative Director of the Alexander McQueen brand and has worked alongside Lee McQueen for more than 14 years. 

Since her appointment, Burton has produced acclaimed collections with a focus on handcraft, establishing herself as an accomplished designer with artisan and technical excellence which is what I admire.


Butterfly details from the 2011 Collection



Mosaic effect bodices with pin-tucks/ ruffles and pleats to the skirt part



Thousands of feathers and couched metal work adorn this beautiful gown

 
Burton was recipient of the Designer of the Year award at the British Fashion Awards in November 2011. After an 11 year absence from London, Burton presented the AW12 collection of McQ, a higher-end contemporary line from the house at London Fashion Week in February 2012.

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McQueen Himself

Alexander McQueen was born in London on March 17th 1969, the youngest of six children. He left school at the age of 16 and was offered an apprenticeship at the traditional Savile Row tailors Anderson and Shephard and then at neighbouring Gieves and Hawkes, both masters in the technical construction of clothing.
 
From there he moved to the theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans where he mastered 6 methods of pattern cutting from the melodramatic 16th Century to the razor sharp tailoring which has become a McQueen signature.

Aged 20 he was employed by the designer Koji Tatsuno, who also had his roots in British tailoring. A year later McQueen travelled to Milan where he was employed as Romeo Gigli's design assistant. On his return to London, he completed a Masters degree in Fashion Design at Central Saint Martin's. He showed his MA collection in 1992, which was famously bought in its entirety by Isabella Blow.

Alexander McQueen shows are known for their emotional power and raw energy, as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of the collections. Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity and severity. An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint is realised with a profound respect and influence for the arts and crafts tradition. Alexander's collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.

In less than 10 years McQueen became one of the most respected fashion designers in the world. In October 1996 he was appointed Chief Designer at the French Haute Couture House Givenchy where he worked until March of 2001.

 







Beaded Corset, again about silhouette and fine details...





 Beautifully fragile and decayed. Melancholy yet romantic...



Curvy padded hips to create the ultimate womens silhouette.




Shells used as embellishment


2003 - Irere
WOMEN'S SPRING/SUMMER 2003 "IRERE"
 

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