Christian Lacroix: Costumier/ Couturier

Lacroix was an assistant at Hermes, collaborated with the couturier of the Tokyo Imperial Court, and then in 1981 joined the House of Patou, where he learned the intricacies of Haute Couture. He went on to launch the Christian Lacroix House in 1987 and was appointed Artistic Director of the Italian fashion house Pucci from 2002 to 2005.

Lacroix, well known for defining the look of the 1980s, combining bright colours and extravagant embellishment, has also designed costumes for numerous stage productions, including a corset for Madonna's 2004 'Re-Invention World Tour'. His passion for theatre, opera and art have provided inspiration for many of his collections.


In 1987 his fashion house was launched to rave reviews.  An extravagant use of detail and bird-of-paradise theatricality generated the mood of the moment. Minimalism was usurped by his eccentricity. The following year he launched his ready-to-wear.
 

Inspirations:

Historical images, his own scrapbook diary of images and swatches.
Born in the 50's when it was the norm to modernise and dismantle past forms and techniques. Ornament, texture, making the old new again.

Materials: 

include taffetas, silks, embroidery anglaise, vintage finds.

Techniques:

 beading, embroidery, appliqué, lace making.

What do I think?

his work is all about layering and collage of Haute couture techniques. The more you look the more you see, prints, embellishments, embroidery. Big ball gown shapes. Varied colour pallettes. Lavishness not achievable within commercial fashion. Romanticism, sugar coated colours, handcraft, details and most importantly fun!

Below- details of his 94' SS Collection...  evidence of Lacroix's love of collage of techniques. I am inspired by the way he creates his sketchbooks. It is eclectic and random which is reflected in the mood of his works.  Lacrois has an in depth knowledge of colour which he says comes from years of trying out combinations. Like me he has a disdain for plain whites, he would rather work with black. Something about white is scary, perhaps the 'clean' surface that proposes more of a risk of ruin.

 

Experimenting with placement of embellishment on a mannequin.  The angle is pointing inwards putting the emphasis onto a small waisted silhouette.

 

Lacroix's 2006/7 Autumn/Winter collection, inspired by the Renaissance, combines the opulent fabrics, colours and ornamental embroidery of that period with contemporary shapes, such as trench coats and mini-dresses, to create a look that is glamorous and dramatic.

Obvious examples of historical references in the 2006/7 collection in terms of line and luxurious fabrics.

 

Lacroix the costumier

Lacroix's inspiration for productions such as Carmen, Gaité Parisienne, Othello, Cosi Fan Tutte and Phèdre are eclectic, drawing from a wide variety of sources, and are at once historical and yet modern.  His haute couture collections had the pagentry of costumes so the styles were very much merged. Lacroix has always had a passion for the finishing touches that add drama such as hats and collars.

Billard Player and Flower Girl costumes

Lacroix : A Courier- the Creative Process
Patrick Mauriès (behind the 94 SS collection)
Christian Lacroix on fashion- Thames and Hudson
Pieces of a Pattern; Lacroix by Lacroix