Animal Madness

 

 

There seems to have been a strong theme of the animal world emerging within haute couture, Paris S/S 2014. Above Jean-Paul Gaultier uses the butterfly as a theme quite literally. Highly embellished symmetry.

 

 

 

At the Valentino show animals were also key. Basic tribal-esque, appliqued shapes and animal forms such as swans and snakes wrapping around tutu like gowns.

Erdem quilted gown

 

 

 

 

Printed, quilted and embellished dress by Erdem (2008). Opulent gem colours smattered with areas of embroidered texture and quilting continue to draw the eye in after the first glance. Stunning.

Christian Lacroix: Costumier/ Couturier

Lacroix was an assistant at Hermes, collaborated with the couturier of the Tokyo Imperial Court, and then in 1981 joined the House of Patou, where he learned the intricacies of Haute Couture. He went on to launch the Christian Lacroix House in 1987 and was appointed Artistic Director of the Italian fashion house Pucci from 2002 to 2005.

Lacroix, well known for defining the look of the 1980s, combining bright colours and extravagant embellishment, has also designed costumes for numerous stage productions, including a corset for Madonna's 2004 'Re-Invention World Tour'. His passion for theatre, opera and art have provided inspiration for many of his collections.


In 1987 his fashion house was launched to rave reviews.  An extravagant use of detail and bird-of-paradise theatricality generated the mood of the moment. Minimalism was usurped by his eccentricity. The following year he launched his ready-to-wear.
 

Inspirations:

Historical images, his own scrapbook diary of images and swatches.
Born in the 50's when it was the norm to modernise and dismantle past forms and techniques. Ornament, texture, making the old new again.

Materials: 

include taffetas, silks, embroidery anglaise, vintage finds.

Techniques:

 beading, embroidery, appliqué, lace making.

What do I think?

his work is all about layering and collage of Haute couture techniques. The more you look the more you see, prints, embellishments, embroidery. Big ball gown shapes. Varied colour pallettes. Lavishness not achievable within commercial fashion. Romanticism, sugar coated colours, handcraft, details and most importantly fun!

Below- details of his 94' SS Collection...  evidence of Lacroix's love of collage of techniques. I am inspired by the way he creates his sketchbooks. It is eclectic and random which is reflected in the mood of his works.  Lacrois has an in depth knowledge of colour which he says comes from years of trying out combinations. Like me he has a disdain for plain whites, he would rather work with black. Something about white is scary, perhaps the 'clean' surface that proposes more of a risk of ruin.

 

Experimenting with placement of embellishment on a mannequin.  The angle is pointing inwards putting the emphasis onto a small waisted silhouette.

 

Lacroix's 2006/7 Autumn/Winter collection, inspired by the Renaissance, combines the opulent fabrics, colours and ornamental embroidery of that period with contemporary shapes, such as trench coats and mini-dresses, to create a look that is glamorous and dramatic.

Obvious examples of historical references in the 2006/7 collection in terms of line and luxurious fabrics.

 

Lacroix the costumier

Lacroix's inspiration for productions such as Carmen, Gaité Parisienne, Othello, Cosi Fan Tutte and Phèdre are eclectic, drawing from a wide variety of sources, and are at once historical and yet modern.  His haute couture collections had the pagentry of costumes so the styles were very much merged. Lacroix has always had a passion for the finishing touches that add drama such as hats and collars.

Billard Player and Flower Girl costumes

Lacroix : A Courier- the Creative Process
Patrick Mauriès (behind the 94 SS collection)
Christian Lacroix on fashion- Thames and Hudson
Pieces of a Pattern; Lacroix by Lacroix

McQueen

Sarah Burton

In 2000, Burton was made Head of Design – Women’s wear. On May 2010, Burton was announced as Creative Director of the Alexander McQueen brand and has worked alongside Lee McQueen for more than 14 years. 

Since her appointment, Burton has produced acclaimed collections with a focus on handcraft, establishing herself as an accomplished designer with artisan and technical excellence which is what I admire.


Butterfly details from the 2011 Collection



Mosaic effect bodices with pin-tucks/ ruffles and pleats to the skirt part



Thousands of feathers and couched metal work adorn this beautiful gown

 

Burton was recipient of the Designer of the Year award at the British Fashion Awards in November 2011. After an 11 year absence from London, Burton presented the AW12 collection of McQ, a higher-end contemporary line from the house at London Fashion Week in February 2012.

.

 

McQueen Himself

Alexander McQueen was born in London on March 17th 1969, the youngest of six children. He left school at the age of 16 and was offered an apprenticeship at the traditional Savile Row tailors Anderson and Shephard and then at neighbouring Gieves and Hawkes, both masters in the technical construction of clothing.
 

From there he moved to the theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans where he mastered 6 methods of pattern cutting from the melodramatic 16th Century to the razor sharp tailoring which has become a McQueen signature.

Aged 20 he was employed by the designer Koji Tatsuno, who also had his roots in British tailoring. A year later McQueen travelled to Milan where he was employed as Romeo Gigli's design assistant. On his return to London, he completed a Masters degree in Fashion Design at Central Saint Martin's. He showed his MA collection in 1992, which was famously bought in its entirety by Isabella Blow.

Alexander McQueen shows are known for their emotional power and raw energy, as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of the collections. Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity and severity. An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint is realised with a profound respect and influence for the arts and crafts tradition. Alexander's collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.

In less than 10 years McQueen became one of the most respected fashion designers in the world. In October 1996 he was appointed Chief Designer at the French Haute Couture House Givenchy where he worked until March of 2001.

 

Beaded Corset, again about silhouette and fine details...

 Beautifully fragile and decayed. Melancholy yet romantic...

Curvy padded hips to create the ultimate womens silhouette.

Shells used as embellishment

2003 - Irere