Texture

 Inspiration for textural drawings and embroidery formation from Tumblr. Built up layers, forming sculptural patterns.

  

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                     

 

 

 

 

Erdem quilted gown

 

 

 

 

Printed, quilted and embellished dress by Erdem (2008). Opulent gem colours smattered with areas of embroidered texture and quilting continue to draw the eye in after the first glance. Stunning.

Sarah Elizabeth Walton Textiles

​​​Sarah Elizabeth Walton explores and combines print, fabric manipulation and hand and machine embroidery, layering techniques to create a range of embellished, opulent and ambiguous textile surfaces. Her sampling, based around specialised fabrics for costume creates the opportunity to explore exciting new interpretations of theatrical aesthetics. She is intrigued by the complexity and precision of conventional embroidery techniques and the challenge of creating innovative, contemporary designs. Influenced by historical and contemporary costume design, paintings and couture fashion, she employs traditional and modern techniques and materials to produce innovative fabrics.​ I love the bejeweled appearance of Sarah's work, the combination of processes give her finished fabrics a luxurious appearance.

http://www.sarahelizabethwalton.co.uk/

           

Dekuntsboer

I came across this brand whilst shopping in Brambles, Norwich. They cover gift, home wear, fashion and accessories. I am inspired by the bright vintage imagery combined with pepped up photo images of animals with photo-shopped hats on....funny and beautiful.  The colours and the quirky imagery completely strike a cord within my own work, particularly my digital creations.

Trend Research/ Colour palettes SS 2014

I have been looking at the trends for S/S 2015 which will be relevant when our degree show is here. I feel it would be best to look at the trends that mean my work will be ahead of itself.

 

Key Trends; Application and Embellishment

• Mixing flat colours with puffed surfaces

• Archaic embroidery - giving threads an unfinished feel, loose threads, visible stitch overlays as if freehand or viewing from the back of the fabric.

• Tarnished foils used as metallic

• Bonded graphics heat sealed of glue bonded lettering

• Patched Ideal for photo placements and graphics motifs, prints applied to canvas and jersey patches with embroidery.

• Joined up lower case embroidery- single stitch for quirky sometimes dark words made to look friendly.

• Perforated surfaces- punched holes.

• Embroidered details- collage multiple techniques such as embellishment exaggerated, heavy weight embroidery, French knots on contrasting colours etc.

Colour Direction S/S 2015

Emphasis on real colour, layered tones, calm pastels, extreme darks

'Vital'- Pinks, oranges and yellows with forget-me-not and lime as well as black cherry.

'Made'- Greyed off mid-tones interspersed with brights as well as lake blue and pumice.

Initial Drawings

From my photographs I have been exploring drawing methods and subject matter.

I like the idea of the story of the fairground/ vintage fairground so I did some research on my Pinterest into the old fashioned carousel animals. I am drawn to drawing animals and it seems I need to explore this further.

www.pinterest.com/bethy666

The drawing method I find most productive for me is a layered approach of mixed media such as pen, ink, stitch and bleach. I then like to take this further with stand out, fun elements such as glitter and sequins.

The freehand machine stitch works well as a fluid continuous line within a drawing. It lends itself well to my drawings of the swing because it portrays movement.

The pen continuous line drawing doesn't work as well for me. It looks toot rigid and colouring book like. It lacks the softness of the stitch.

The inks are easily blend-able and I like that they are a bit stronger than watercolour yet can still be softened.

My favourite material to work on is canvas roll as it has the foldable and fragile elements of paper combined with the weave of a fabric, making it strong to both sew and draw on.

Over the holidays I have collected more materials such as WOW glitters which are made of fine dust. This gives the glitter fun appeal without looking as childish!

Now for initial development ...

Focus on Colour

I have a habit of using so many colours because it's what is all around me, it's what I wear. I rarely match shades and I often do this in my work too. Colour is an instinctive thing for me and to be honest I am always drawn to using pink somewhere within my work because it is my distinctive style. I genuinely think using it makes me more productive.

For this project I started off free with my colour and eventually narrowed it down to what I wanted, my little pony, stereotypical mermaid pastels combined with more grown up textures.

I have identified the 7 colours I think could be key in this project and sourced polyester threads to match.  I then experimented with combinations of colour and proportions to reflect different moods. This was partially beneficial but as I said earlier colour is an intinctive thing for me.

Development of drawing into print samples

I've been developing some more digital prints from my drawings. My emphasis has been less on the literal imagery and more on the way the colours and textures merge to create a suitable background fabric for my embellishments.

The circles are too flat- not enough texture to make up for the lack of colour. Too white. Could possibly use this as an experimental fabric but don't want to take this pattern any further. I also don't like the one off designs for use as my backing fabric, however could be good as a complimentary shirt fabric.

 

 

 

I lightened the designs on photoshop to create pastel colours and 'baby neons' as I've been calling them however some of the designs below have come out looking a bit dirty/ dark or dusky. These will be good as small Suffolk puff embellishments or cording etc.

This section of the print is more interesting than the print as a whole because this part has more depth. I've decided to focus more on the embellishments so I won't be taking this print any further but if I did in future I would look at developing this section.

The colours turned out very accurately in this piece which I developed from my initial drawing.

My favourite designs are the ones below. This one is developed from a drawings I did at the Sea-life centre (below) which I then put into repeat on photoshop. I think the layering on this print gives it depth and there is a good level of colour. I also think the polka dot adds to the decorative feel of the piece as well as reflecting the patterning of fish scales.

Matthew Williamson

Matthew Williamson uses vibrant colours in his work with very precise bead and stud detailing.  As well as print, embellishment details are used as patterns.  Williamson has an amazing way of flattering the female form.

Interior of shop with customised walls!



Partially dyed netting- I experimented with this too as an overlay

 

                                    
                                 Hand-rolled sequins for dress detailing inspired by coral.

 

 

Sketchbook Work...

My own photo taken at Old Hunstanton beach- Instagram

After seeing Karen Casper's work at the NEC it's a bit like a lightbulb has flicked on in my head. I am as interested in texture, as I am colour and pattern. To begin reflecting this I decided to have a session working textures and colours in my sketchbook based on sea-life from initial photos and the sea-life centre and the coast (fish scales, dripping water, limestone marks on cliffs).



My own photo on the beach at Old Hunstanton- Winter sun

I went crazy experimenting with Gesso creating surface texture by sploshing, embossing, drying and dabbing at the same time.

































These all worked well to give tactile textures so I developed further by adding colour into the Gesso with ink.



















I also decided to add laces, found scraps such as net this is my favourite due to the depth added via the netting- drawing takes on a sculptural feel.

Collage and papers have continued to be key in my drawing, after looking at Kurt Schwitters this has inspired me even more. I layered vintage embossed wallpaper, newspapers and book pages and added more texture and colour using Gesso and ink.

Again the more texture the better because of the 3D quality. The flatter single colour pages are definitely something I will now start to move away from.

 

I will use these drawings as reference points for embellishment texture as well as developing some of them into sublimation prints for my polyester shirts...

 

 

I will use these drawings as reference points for embellishment texture as well as developing some of them into sublimation prints for my upcycled polyester shirts...